Posted on Monday, 15 February 2016

Helen Aleshire takes a whistle-stop ferry tour of some of the best-known islands in Greece's Dodecanese group, boasting history and stunning beaches in equal measure.

Winter might not seem like the best time to visit Greece, but it does present some big plus points. It's much cheaper than summer - and it's less crowded. Low season does make planning a little trickier, with reduced ferry schedules and some hotels closed for the winter – but these issues are far from insurmountable.

Athens – Hello, Goodbye

Having been to Athens before and having enjoyed the incredible Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Acropolis – I only stayed in the Greek capital for one night. Given the continuing political unrest here, I wasn't surprised to find the mood on the street a little tauter than on my visit eight years ago. But with daytime temperatures of up to 18 degrees, it was certainly a pleasant change from the UK.

At around £20 for a dorm bed, Athens Backpackers is as affordable a place as you're likely to find in this city, with clean beds and helpful staff. Here I met some fellow travellers and in the evening visited a nearby sports bar for a few beers. It was great to get back into the social aspect of backpacking again, but I made sure I didn't drink too much; I had to get up early for my flight to Santorini.

With only 10 days in Greece, I had to resort to a plane in order to pack in as many islands as I could.

I gazed out of the window at sprawling Athens below. While I do like the vibrancy of Athens, I can see why some people are eager to leave – especially when the Greek islands are beckoning.

Athens to Santorini

Located near the bus station, Fira Backpackers was perfect for exploring Santorini. While the toilets weren't great the staff were very friendly. It also had large lockers to keep my camera and laptop safe. Next door was a great little restaurant where I could try one of my favourite Greek delicacies: taramosalata. A little stinky for some, utterly irresistible to me!

Even in winter, Santorini was picture postcard perfect. Just as the guidebooks stated, the coastal cliffs' multi-coloured layers did indeed resemble those of a cake, while the white-washed domes and arches of Thira's other-worldly buildings were every bit as wonderful as I'd hoped.

I was lucky enough to see the sunset illuminate Thira's cliffs and buildings in a mesmerising light show of orange and white.

Santorini to Rhodes

I took the late afternoon ferry from Chalki (Santorini) to Rhodes (Dodekanisos Seaways) for roughly $23, having booked my ticket online. It took just an hour 20 mins to reach Rhodes.

Disembarking at Mandraki Harbour at dusk, I entered the delightfully cobbled Old Town on foot and, with a little help from my smartphone and Google Maps, soon found my hotel – the Mango Rooms. I fancied my own space after spending several nights in a backpacker dorm. And besides, it was only 25 euros.

It wasn't until the morning that I discovered the roof garden, where I was afforded fantastic views over the Old Town, which itself looked a lot more endearing in the Greek morning light.

A day exploring Rhodes reveals an island that offers so much, it's not easy deciding what to do. Catch up on some tanning on one of the many beaches? Take a hike through the beautiful wooden valleys? Or soak up some of the island's rich history?

Naturally, I decided to do a bit of each. I took a bus to Tsambika Beach, 25km south of Rhodes City, where I arrived by midday. The sand here is as golden - and the water as blue - as any brochure could promise. Although the sea looked most inviting, it was clearly too cold to jump in. Something for a return trip in summer, perhaps. And the temperature – 17 degrees – wasn't quite warm enough for sunbathing.

Another 25km by bus is the charming village of Lindos, which also boasts some excellent beaches, as well as some impressive archaeology – a highlight of which is the acropolis of Lindos.

Rhodes to Kos

Once again I paid a little extra to catch the 8.30am ferry to Kos, so I would arrive in the daytime. This service, also operated by Dodekanisos Seaways, cost $40 and took just under four hours.

As in Rhodes, I'd booked a hotel that was walking distance from the ferry terminal. Astron Hotel-Kos was reasonable enough for £30 a night. I spent all afternoon exploring the Asklepion, a complex of ancient Greek ruins located just a few miles from my hotel. I spent the rest of the day wandering round these marble pillars, thoroughly engrossed.

I had only planned a single night in Kos. Thousands of migrants have arrived on the island in the last few months and, although the island is beautiful, it didn't seem appropriate to stay for a long time. Tensions are high among locals, who seem overwhelmed by the number of desperate people arriving on their shores. It's impossible not to be saddened by some of their tragic stories.

Patmos

I once again paid a little extra in order to arrive in Patmos during the day. The 11am ferry cost $38 and took two hours twenty minutes. One gets the impression that little has changed in the last 2000 years on Patmos, a truly enchanting island. The imposing monastery sets the tone: Christianity courses through this island's veins. St John experienced his Revelation here – and no wonder. What a place! I wished I'd pencilled in more time to explore Patmos, with delightful whitewashed villages like Hora, as well as a wealth of tranquil pebbly beaches. A wonderful place to enjoy some 'me time'.

Back to Athens

I was sad to board the ferry back to Athens. My whirlwind trip around some of the principle islands in the Dodecanese group was unforgettable – but far too short. A return trip in the summer was definitely on the cards.

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