Posted on Thursday, 27 October 2022

Misconceptions melt away faster than a tutti-frutti under a Black Sea sun, as Isabel and her family discover the Bulgarian Riviera and Bulgarian beaches are just as much fun as those on the Med – but a lot cheaper.

When my husband first suggested Bulgaria for a beach holiday, what came to mind was not skimpy swimsuits, sunblock and ostentatious cocktails. Instead, I had images of austere Soviet-era tower blocks, oxen pulling turnip-laden carts and plentiful supplies of potent after-dinner snifters.

As it turned out, I was only right about the last assumption.

Arriving in Varna after an inexpensive flight from London, my husband and I, with our two children in tow, began our Bulgarian beach break in earnest – or at least in inquisitiveness.

Bulgarian beach resorts

Possessing a long stretch of the Black Sea coast, Bulgaria is blessed with some seriously beautiful beaches in popular areas like Golden Sands and Sunny Beach.

Collectively, these resorts are commonly referred to as the Bulgarian Riviera.

Golden Sands

Picking up our hire car in Varna, we drove the 15 miles north to Golden Sands, perhaps the most famous Bulgarian beach resort after Sunny Beach.

The beaches in Bulgaria

True to its name, Golden Sands did indeed boast deep yellow-coloured sands.

Keen to get our first piece of Bulgarian beach action, we made short work of check-in and headed right down to the glittering blue Black Sea.

The water was clean and warm – a chief concern if you have kids.

These qualities would be shared by all the Bulgarian beaches we visited.

Bulgarian spa

In the afternoon we enjoyed our Bulgarian beach resort at a curative family spa for a fraction of the price of most Mediterranean resorts and then went about choosing a beach-side restaurant to have dinner in.

Bulgarian culture

After an embarrassing mix-up with a scampi and French fries order, we soon learned a very important fact about Bulgarians: When they nod their head, they mean No and when they shake their head, they mean Yes.

Dinner at Golden Sands

While there is plenty of fantastic fresh seafood to be enjoyed in Golden Sands, we opted for a more traditional pork casserole. Rich, filling and very tasty.

To finish, my husband and I sampled the local rakia – a potent spirit made from fruit.

Our particular tipple was made from cherries.

Bulgarian nightlife

We turned in before the after-dark madness began, which focused on the aptly named Party Street.

Our glimpse of the nightlife suggested Golden Sands could give the party resorts of Spain and Greece a real run for their money (yet for a lot less money).

Albena

Rising early, we headed north to another of the Bulgarian resorts, delightful Albena.

While Golden Sands was undeniably fun, it was a little too much for a family getaway. Albena, on the other hand, seemed purpose-built for families.

Things to do in Albena, Bulgaria

Albena offered a whole host of things for families to do in Bulgaria: miniature trains (not oxen carts) provided the transport, while mini golf, aqua parks and bowling alleys provided the daytime entertainment.

With reluctance we returned south the next day (tight schedule), popping into Varna for a quick dip.

Beach in Varna, Bulgaria

Some of the most beautiful beaches in Bulgaria are situated in the area of Varna; the beach we visited in Varna offered us more silky soft, golden sands and endless beach umbrellas.

The journey South

We had a long day of driving ahead of us, but the lovely hinterlands ensured the time passed quickly. We stopped off for coffees and ice creams several times, lending the journey an adventurous road-trip feel.

All the while, the sparkling, gas-blue Black Sea promised eternal beach jollity.

Irakli Beach

A pit stop in Irakli Beach laid bare just as much nudism as the guidebook suggested – certainly the place to go if you forgot to pack your swimming gear!

It was a beautiful spot to get an all-over tan: the beach paradise scene was completed by the glassy blue lagoon, plentiful birdlife and even tortoises, which the kids were fixated by.

Sunny Beach: Sunny Beach Bulgaria nightlife

We rolled into the legendary Sunny Beach before darkness fell, just in time to catch the resort warming up for what was, presumably, another night of hedonistic partying.

It was something like Blackpool but with more heat and more lights – and more Bulgarians!

You have to give in to Sunny Beach: resistance is futile. It's loud, it's tacky – and it's a great deal of fun.

The difference between Bulgarian towns 

Wearily, we checked into our bustling hotel.

The contrast between the tranquil countryside and the throbbing resort could not have been starker: perhaps it was like spending days in the vast Nevada desert, before rolling into pulsating lights of Las Vegas at sundown.

After a brief exploration of the buzzing promenade, we turned in and fell asleep to the sounds of what sounded like Eastern Europe's biggest beach party.

In the morning we rose early and refreshed – perhaps unlike most inhabitants of this mega-resort!

Breakfast in Sunny Beach

Most of the eateries seemed reluctant to open – perhaps the proprietors had not got much sleep. But we soon found a beachside cafe for breakfast.

We filled up on tasty ‘banitsas' – filo pastries containing layers of whisked egg and white cheese washed down with fruit juice and coffee.

A day in Sunny Beach

Breakfast set us up nicely for a long day of sunbathing and swimming, interspersed with shopping for sailor-themed swimwear (there is a great deal to be shopped), a visit to Action Aquapark, and then more pork casserole.

Our trip to the Bulgarian Riviera

Life is a joy when you only have to worry about dropping the ice creams on the way back to the sun lounger, where to go for dinner and trying to remember that when a Bulgarian shakes his head, they actually mean Yes.

And not a turnip-laden ox cart in sight!

 

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