Posted on Tuesday, 5 April 2016

Nestled in the mountains of Sintra, the Palácio da Regaleira is embedded with mysterious symbols and iconography, presenting visitors with curious and unexpected delights at every turn.

Lisbon offers such a wealth of historical attractions that Quinta da Regaleira, just 19 miles away, can get overlooked. But this mystical estate merits a day of your time at least. Indeed, as I discovered, a return visit is most definitely in order.

An hour's train ride from Lisbon's Oriente station is the town of Sintra, just a few miles from Quinta da Regaleira. Given its proximity I chose to walk the half an hour to the estate, although there is a regular bus service.

Eccentric Brazilian Millionaire

I had only heard about Quinta da Regaleira and the splendid palace it contained, in passing. This lack of knowledge certainly increased the estate's effect. Bought by eccentric Brazilian millionaire António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro in 1892, the estate was developed into a bewildering wonderland featuring a palace, chapel, grottoes, fountains, waterfalls and 'initiation wells'.

Perplexing Medley of Styles

The estate's cocktail of architectural styles include Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Manueline, decorated with enigmatic symbols inspired by alchemy, Masonry, the Knights Templar and the Rosicrucians.

I felt spellbound almost as soon as I began exploring. Perhaps it was the perplexing medley of styles that made the place so magical: you just cannot pin it down. As soon as you think you have the place worked out, you come across some strange feature – a sculpture or a fountain or a carving – that throws you off. And yet the entire place seems to work – albeit as some slightly unhinged, eccentric theme park.

Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal (monysasi/Bigstock.com)

Intriguing Symbiosis

The lush vegetation found in the gardens and grounds of Quinta da Regaleira seems to embrace the architecture. Or perhaps it's the other way around. There's an intriguing symbiosis here. As you emerge from dark tunnels, cross stepping-stone ponds, or feel the spray from water cascading over rockeries – you feel a sense of unity.

These border crossings were most intriguing, suggesting the harmonious existence of the natural and the man-made.

Child-like Wonder

The interior certainly befits the abode of a millionaire, with intricate wall paintings and delightful – if over the top – carved ceilings. But a visit to Quinta da Regaleira is exactly that – over the top – an Alice in Wonderland film set that makes you feel like a child in a fairy story.

I left the most intriguing feature of the place until last: the larger of the palace's two ‘initiation wells'. This structure is somewhat like an underground tower, with a spiral stone staircase affording dizzying views to the bottom. But this is no ordinary well. No water has ever been drawn from it. It was used solely for ceremonial purposes – including Tarot initiation rites!

Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal (rechitansorin/Bigstock.com)

A day at the Palácio da Regaleira and its estate is thoroughly immersive – a mystical, mysterious adventure that inspires a sense of child-like wonder in all who visit.

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