Posted on Wednesday, 28 June 2017

Stephen Hunt and his family decide to swap their usual summertime haunt of Andalucía for the beaches of Galicia. But can the region's coastal delights match those of its southern counterpart?

Having enjoyed many a summer in Spain's southern coastal resorts, we took a family decision to try Galicia this year. I say it was a 'family decision' but there were a few murmurs of discontent in our group. Andalucía, it seemed, would take some beating – especially where our two sons were concerned.

Having flown into Portugal's second city, Porto, then crossing into Spain, first impressions suggested Galicia was at least as beautiful as Andalucía.

My wife had been worried about the weather: she seemed to think rain was the norm here. However, azure blue skies and gas-blue seas proved, at least as far as our first day was concerned, that wasn't true.

We hired a car in Vigo, which would give us the freedom to explore the region - or at least some of it. With an area 50% larger than Wales, it would be impossible to discover all the region's delights in one trip.

There are two main coasts to see in Galicia: the west coast with its Rías Baixas (Low Estuaries) and the north coast with its Rías Altas (High Estuaries).

We chose the western zone, blessed as it is with wooded peninsulas jutting into the Atlantic, forming pretty lake-like tracts of sea.

As with most visitors here, we focussed on the beaches.

Playa de la Lanzada

This incredible tract of dune-backed beach faces a frothing (and rather chilly) Atlantic, located near the end of the peninsula between the Pontevedra and Arousa rías. We enjoyed a little body boarding here, soon growing accustomed to the cool waters. This 1.5 mile curve of fantastic beach is ideal for a long stroll. In the evenings, hundreds of Spaniards take to the sands for a pre- or post-dinner walk.

Area Grande and O Carreiro

The feared rain arrived briefly while we visited these wonderful golden strips of sand, which were punctuated with mighty granite boulders. After the rain clouds passed we explored the damp but beautiful beach. The creature-rich rock pools were a particularly big hit with our sons. We also enjoyed a family voyage on a pedalo, a tranquil trip which benefitted from the many mussel-growing rafts which offered beach-goers excellent shelter from the sea.

Playa de Barra

By the time we reached Playa de Barra, it dawned on us that Britons rarely visit Galicia: we had met only a handful of compatriots on our trip.

Playa de Barra, it turned out, would be one of our favourite beaches. Aside from its natural beauty, it permitted nude sunbathing, so we shared the hot sand with an assortment of bare humanity.

Cíes Islands

At the entrance of the Ría de Vigo are the Cíes Islands, a group of islets that have banned the motor car – making for a very relaxed destination. Getting here is not cheap mind you. Ferries depart from Cangas or Baiona and they can get rather crowded with day-trippers.

However, a visit here is very much worthwhile. The beach near the dock at Rodas is a long, sweeping affair; a bar of squeaky white sand that backs onto a stunning lagoon. After pulling our enraptured sons away from the cool waters, we ascended into the hinterland of eucalyptus and pines which rose up towards steep cliffs overlooking the mighty Atlantic.

Galicia, it transpired, is every bit as wonderful as Andalucía, yet with a certain undiscovered quality to it. In our minds, the beaches of the south had some serious competition – competition that might well demand a follow up trip next year.

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