Posted on Thursday, 20 October 2016

John Flanagan visits some of Finland's famous – and not-so-famous – saunas, travelling from the urban heart of Helsinki, to the chilled beauty of the country's north.

Many Fins couldn't imagine life without access to a sauna. But this mainstay of Finnish life is facing tough times. With stiff competition from a plethora of other leisure activities, Finland's saunas have had to diversify.

Once, saunas doubled as social hubs for the country's citizens. As time went on, many traditional saunas closed because new flats would incorporate saunas and washing amenities for residents. Indeed, it is estimated that there is one private sauna for every three-and-a-half people!

But the public sauna is making a come-back – in the form of larger, ultra-modern buildings that also include bars, restaurants – and even beaches. Younger Fins are being encouraged to embrace these new sauna behemoths – such s Löyly and Helsinki Allas – which stand confidently on former industrial wastelands on the banks of the Gulf of Finland. Cruise ship tourists are also being targeted by these new establishments, which offer something typically Finnish for visitors to enjoy.

However, on my recent trip to Helsinki, I wanted to experience a few of the more traditional saunas.

Sauna Hermanni

Until the opening of Löyly and Helsinki Allas, Sauna Hermanni was one of only four public saunas in the Finnish capital. Established in 1953, it is a wonder of mid-century interior design, offering a 30-berth male sauna and a 20-berth female sauna. To visit Hermanni is to go back in time: when I visited, faded magazines from decades ago were piled onto the old coffee tables; ancient wood panelled walls were covered in pin-ups of yesteryear.

It's not 100% authentic however; redecorations over the years have consciously ensured that the sauna retains its 1950s vibe.

Kotiharjun Sauna

My tour of Helsinki's finest saunas had to include the historic Kotiharjun Sauna. Built in 1928, it is the city's oldest. Originally established to give railway workers somewhere to wash and relax, temperatures here can get very high indeed – thanks to the mighty old stove. I had to leave the searing heat five or six times while I was there: luckily, there is a great cool-down area outside where you can eat and drink.

Sompasauna

From one of the most traditional saunas in Finland, to one of the most contemporary. Sompasauna is free-to-use and lies on the banks of the Gulf of Finland in a less salubrious quadrant than Löyly and Helsinki Allas. Despite the edgy surroundings the Fins I met were very friendly and keen to discuss their nation's love affair with saunas. The only downside of Sompasauna is that it's rather small – although this does stimulate conversation.

Pyhäpiilo

After Helsinki, I began to feel like a sauna connoisseur. But I wanted to experience a rural style sauna, too. After a little research, I travelled north in search of the Pyhäpiilo, located near the winter sports mecca of Ruka. This establishment offered a more ritualised, relaxed sauna experience, aimed at boosting the health of mind and body. Here I sampled a drink made from tar (terva), which is often consumed before a sauna. However, it's also added to all manner of imbibes in everyday Finnish life.

Here I was given the opportunity to gently flagellate myself with a birch branch; it's good for circulation, apparently. I also got to dive outside into the open air and plunge myself in to the chilly waters of the lake. A most invigorating experience, especially since the setting was so beautiful. Birch trees edged the glittering lake, which was on the verge of freezing over. I didn't stay to admire it for too long, however.

While the saunas of Helsinki were wonderful, I felt this rural version of the Finnish sauna better suited me: After a few hours in Pyhäpiilo, I couldn't possibly have felt more relaxed.

Top Tips for Finish Saunas:

1. Saunas are taken in the nude. Public saunas will generally have separate areas for males and females, otherwise towels will be provided.

2. Shower before you enter the sauna.

3. Not just anyone can pour water over the stove (kiuas) in order to produce steam (löyly). Etiquette demands this is done by the person on the upper bench – the hottest part of the sauna.

4. There isn't much talk in most saunas – it's a time for quiet reflection. However, conversations aren't forbidden. Indeed, it has even been known for business meetings to take place in saunas.

5. Avoid staying in too long – it isn't a competition and overheating is dangerous.

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