Posted on Friday, 20 March 2015

While the First and Second World Wars have overshadowed it somewhat, the Battle of Waterloo remains a highly significant event in British – and European – history. It marked the downfall of Napoleon and the end of 20 years of continental war.

I vividly recall watching the 1970 epic Waterloo as a child, with Rod Steiger as the French Emperor and Christopher Plummer as the Duke of Wellington. War is of course hell, but watching the brave cavalry charges of the British ‘heavies' and the Scots Greys, while seeing the French Old Guard fight to the bitter end – was all highly entertaining at that age.

As I grew older I knew that war wasn't fun at all. Although it took a recent visit to the Waterloo battlefield itself to fully bring this truth home.

While in Britain we focus on Wellington's feats during the battle, when you visit the tourist shops in the villages around Waterloo, you realise that it was Napoleon who gained everlasting fame, not the victorious British commander; the shelves are crammed with shiny souvenirs depicting the diminutive French general.

Day 1

But as my young nephew and I met Jim, our tour guide, at Ashford, Kent, so began a very British version of events.

Our group boarded the Eurostar to France, the train that once originated from Waterloo Station – named after the battle – but now begins its journey in the gem of St Pancras International.

St Pancras International

Slipping out of the dark tunnel we picked up speed over the flat fields of northern France before crossing into Belgium. There was much chatter about those events of 200 years ago. The clouds were bruised-looking overhead and promised rain. But the mood was pleasant despite the shabby weather. Jim was an affable sort and ensured each of the eight people in our group was comfortable and fully acquainted with the schedule.

From Brussels Midi station we took a local train to Braine-l'Alleud, then a minibus taxi to the battlefield area. We were glad Jim had been so adamant that we take rain jackets and umbrellas; it was tipping down as we emerged from the minibus.

First up was Wellington's headquarters, where the famous British general planned his historic engagement with Napoleon. The raining persisted outside the little room, as we surveyed Wellington's bed and table, while we listened intently to the informative audio guide.

After a brief visit to the historic Royal Chapel & St Joseph's Church – not directly connected with the battle – we were shown a short presentation that set the scene wonderfully. Although I am familiar with the main actions of the battle, my nephew was not – and he was thoroughly absorbed by the video.

It was fitting that the rain kept on coming down – since the beginning of the battle was delayed due to rain. Both Allied and French soldiers were exposed to constant precipitation on the night before battle. What a miserable way to prepare for battle!

Waterloo battle re-enactment, Belgium (Colette2/Bigstock.com)

Next we visited The Panorama – Western Europe's largest mural. It depicts several French cavalry charges against Allied infantry squares. The scale of this artwork matches that of the epic battle.

Apart from one Birmingham couple who sheltered in a coffee shop, the continuing rain was not enough to keep our group from ascending the famous Lion Mount, a pyramid of 300,000 cubic metres of earth taken directly from the battlefield. On top was the lion statue, roughly marking Wellington's centre. We gazed out through the drizzle and tried to imagine the columns and squares and cavalry lines that formed up on that summer's day in 1815. Jim's vivid descriptions really brought the battle to life.

Later we had a delicious dinner in a restaurant near Le Gros Velo, Plancenoit, where the Prussians took on Napoleon's Young Garde.

Day 2

Our group spent the night in cosy hotel about 20 minutes taxi ride from the battlefield, included in the tour price. After a hearty Belgian breakfast (bread, cheese and jam, not waffles as my nephew had hoped!) and plenty of energising coffee, our group was out and into the battlefield once more.

Jim took us by foot to Wellington's Crossroads and Picton's Line, where the exploits of the British Union Brigade were evocatively described.

We were then led to 'Ziethen's Crossroads', where Jim further communicated the drama of the day. Appropriately enough, by now the conditions were similar to those during the battle – in terms of the weather at least. Bright sun lit these famous fields for us.

Napoleon's headquarters at the La Belle Alliance inn were next on the itinerary, where we learned more about ‘Old Bony' and what would be his darkest day. Here the general argued with his commanders – perhaps to his cost.

My nephew was delighted that waffles were available at lunch, which we took near Napoleon's headquarters. Near here Wellington and the Prussian commander met to signify the end of fighting. We were surprised to learn from Jim that Napoleon's old HQ was now used as a nightclub on Friday and Saturday evenings!

The mood was rather jovial in our tour group, which was perhaps a little inappropriate given the grim events of two centuries ago.

However, on our final afternoon things did get a little sombre, as we toured La Haie Sainte, Hougoumont Farm and Chapel and Mercer's Ridge.

At the end of all this bloodshed, 15,000 British, 7,000 Prussian and more than 24,000 French troops had been killed or wounded. Without the knowledge that Jim had implanted, these fields would be nothing out of the ordinary – with it, the area became a sobering and mournful place.

Further Information Bicentennial Waterloo Re-enactment 2015

One of the largest Waterloo re-enactments will take place on 18, 19 and 20 June 2015. Find out more at: https://www.waterloo2015.org/en.

List of Reputable Waterloo battlefield Tours:

https://www.waterlootours.co.uk – Tour price per person sharing £265

https://www.waterloobattlefieldtours.com – Prices not listed

https://www.belgium-tour-guide.com/private-tour-in-waterloo-t-1257.php - 5 hour tour: €200 for 4 persons, €300 for 8 persons.

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