The beautiful Thai cave few tourists ever visit
When I first ventured into Thailand's huge Phraya Nakhon Cave, I wondered why it wasn't more famous. Its size is made all the more astonishing by the hole in the roof, which at the right time of day illuminates a beautiful pavilion built by Thai royalty more than 100 years ago.
After you get over the vastness of the place, you notice how incredibly silent it is. I spent well over an hour exploring this most peaceful of natural wonders.
But it wasn't easy to reach. Compared to the beaches of Koh Phangan, Samui and Phi Phi, Phraya Nakhon Cave is well off the tourist trail. Perhaps the locals want to keep it this way. Indeed, while I was there perhaps on a dozen or so others entered the cave.
How to reach Phraya Nakhon Cave
Most visitors of Phraya Nakhon Cave start out in Hua Hin - a beach resort city revered among Thais as the place where numerous royal palaces are located - the Thai equivalent of Balmoral, if you will.
I decided to take a local orange bus from Hua Hin to Pranburi, still some 35 kilometres from the cave. The journey to Pranburi takes around an hour and costs 20 baht (50p). From the way the friendly locals looked at me, it seemed very few tourists take this mode of transport. Departures are about every 30 minutes, but the schedule appears rather random.
I alighted in Pranburi during a rain storm. Once it passed I walked to a resort called Chill, where I checked into a simple, clean bungalow costing 600 baht (£15). Here I rented a scooter for 300 baht per day and made plans to visit Phraya Nakhon Cave in the morning.
Pranburi itself doesn't have much to recommend it, but the locals were very friendly - in part, I think, because they don't see many foreigners.
I rented a scooter because there are no public transport services into Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, where the cave is located. Taking care to plot my route south with Google Maps, I set out. Aside from the cave, the area is very beautiful, with numerous limestone karsts rising up from the verdant jungle and edging the gas blue gulf of Thailand. I passed many pretty beaches with almost nobody on them.
I eventually reached the coastal village of Bang Phu, where I bought a national park entry ticket for 200 baht (£5). It wasn't obvious where the park entrance was, but locals pointed me in the right direction. Here I had the option of taking a boat into the park, but I decided to hike over the headland, offering me pleasant views over the sea. It was a challenging climb, and I wouldn't recommend it unless you are fairly fit.
Down in the next bay I walked into a tranquil pine forest edging the sea, giving me some much needed shade. It is possible to rent tents under the pines for 150 baht a night - perfect if you're seeking some peace and quiet. There is also a restaurant, which I visited after the cave.
I followed the signs towards the cave. There was another steep climb ahead, and I was drenched in sweat by the time I reached the cave entrance. I spotted several dusky langurs on the way.
The caves offered cool respite from the heat. Before entering the cave proper, there were a myriad of strange rock formations to examine, including a section of rock dividing a hole in the ceiling, nicknamed “Death Bridge” - after the many wild animals that have come a cropper by traversing it.
All the effort was well worth it when I finally saw the majestic Phraya Nakhon Cave itself. I could well understand why Thai royalty loved it so much.
Tips to make the most out of your visit:
- Try to arrive at the park by 8am so you have the cave more or less to yourself
- You can book a hotel/guest house in nearby and use it to explore the area
- Numerous quiet beaches are located nearby
- Consider camping in the national park itself - under the pines by the beach (150b; £4 per person)