Posted on Monday, 12 December 2016

I was in Thailand when the army seized control in 2014. I remember it clearly: after 10pm the streets were patrolled by army trucks with loud speakers telling people to stay indoors; business owners spoke in hushed voices about the effects on tourism. For me, it was an exciting time – sneaking into bars for illicit lock-ins, discussing the ins and outs of the military take-over with wily old ex-pats and the occasional Chang-emboldened Thai.

A three month shut-down?

The tensions of 2014 seemed like a mild foretaste of the passing of the king; there were rumours that bars and nightclubs would shut down for three months after his death, which would mean, quite simply, that tourism in Thailand would be decimated – at least for a while.

In the event, the grief was substantial – black clothing sold out, every TV station, website and Facebook profile was black, white and grey. Soldiers shut down the go-go bars; loud music and “joyful events” were a no-no. Images of grieving citizens were beamed nationwide, with a regularity seen in the DPRK when it lost its head of state.

A friend of mine in the UK, considering a trip to the Kingdom, asked me: "What's the situation? Is it safe?"

The question seemed a little silly to me. I've spent the last four weeks in Thailand and it doesn't feel much different to before the king's death – but of course, that's my perspective as a foreigner. People still wear black regularly – especially in Bangkok – but out on the islands it's very much business as usual. Thais still smile and joke and get on with life; the hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs are all eager for customers.

Same same – but different

The only difference between this December and last, it seems, is that there are far fewer tourists. Many night spots are conspicuously bereft of fun-seekers, the posh beachside hotels are staffed by underworked Thais, the empty rope-swings under the palms cut lonely silhouettes at sunset.

Events in Bangkok go far beyond the capital's boundaries.

This is a sensitive time, but the government is eager for tourists to visit. They have already waived the visa fee for those who want to stay for longer than two weeks (a 60 day visa usually costs at least 1000 baht or £20), while the free 30 day visa on arrival remains in place.

Lower temperatures – and lower prices

If anything, now is great time to visit Thailand. Lower temperatures associated with December and January make it perfect for a beach getaway; fewer tourists mean cheaper hotels. You can bargain a lot harder for almost anything.

For Britons in particular, the pound has recovered some ground against the Thai baht since Brexit, further reducing costs. Even when the referendum knocked the pound in June, for those used to European prices, Thailand would still be a bargain.

Without doubt, Thailand is open for business. Despite their sadness, the Thais like the good life too much to let anything bad happen.

So the next time someone tells you Thailand is too unstable for a holiday, just repeat the ubiquitous south east Asian slogan and tell them: “It's same-same – but different”.

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