Posted on Friday, 27 December 2013

For a long time I wanted to visit China's biggest city, Shanghai. But until I was landed with a 17 hour layover in the city's Pudong Airport (it was the most economical ticket on sale), I never got the chance.

I was flying from Bangkok to London via Shanghai after a seven month trip, and made sure I went to bed early. I was mindful of my friend, who, having been out in the Thai capital for leaving drinks with me the night before, had missed his own flight home due to an overzealous whisky tasting session. He spent an extra 12 very hung over hours in the airport that he hadn't banked on as he waited for the next available flight. I didn't want the same thing to happen to me.

However, it was not human error that was to delay my arrival in Shanghai, but the metropolis' infamous smog problem; I was shocked to discover the only cancelled flight from Suvarnabhumi Airport that day was my flight to China. Thinking that I might be stuck in Bangkok for days – and potentially miss a family Christmas – I was relieved to be booked on another flight later that evening.

Making New Friends

Most of the flights I take are very boring, and I rarely manage to strike up a good conversation. However, a cheery American man saw me queuing at check-in, and used his Priority Status with the airline to get me through faster. Because we checked in together, we sat in the same row with a single empty seat between us.

This extra room would have suited us fine, but neither of us were too upset when an attractive Thai lady claimed the vacant seat just before take-off. The conversation flowed fluidly – especially given the American's amiable character – and we were all three united by a love of red wine.

I was soon having so much fun talking to both of them that I forgot I was facing 17 hours in Shanghai with nowhere to sleep but a seat in the airport waiting area. However, as I enjoyed the wine I decided that I would explore Shanghai by night, and hoped the metro was running from the airport to the city. I particularly wanted to see the famous Bund district.

Sleepless in Shanghai

On landing, I revealed to the American that I was facing a 17 hour wait in the city, and he promptly said I could stay in his hotel; a simple matter of asking reception for a fold out bed. However, I was keen to explore the city by night, and besides, the Thai lady wanted to have a ‘Harbin' beer while she waited for a business associate to meet her at the airport. The American left his hotel's card in case I changed my mind.

Visa Concerns: Sneaking into China

I wasn't even sure I was allowed in Shanghai, since I had no visa. But a recent rule allowing short visits (for transfer passengers) had been established, and I was given 24 hours. I was delighted.

From 2013, UK residents (and numerous other nationalities) are permitted to stay in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou Chengdu, and Chongqing for up to 72 hours on a free transit visa. This is far preferable to obtaining a regular tourist visa, which can be time consuming and costly.

After the beer it soon transpired that there was no metro running, or indeed any city-bound mode of transport except a taxi. It was late and I was tired. Exploring Shanghai by night was losing its appeal. The Thai and her associate suggested I share a taxi with them to the city, then take the cab to the American's hotel.

Nanjing Road, Shanghai - the world's longest shopping district with 1 million daily visitors. (Songquan Deng/Bigstock.com)

Free Stay in a Luxury Hotel

We reached the Thai lady's hotel – a glittering five-star building – and said our goodbyes. Soon after I arrived at the American's hotel, which was almost as impressive. The American seemed less friendly when I appeared, perhaps annoyed that I had not taken up his offer in the first place (it was 1am by now). Pretty Thai ladies can cloud one's judgement, it seems.

I was given a fold-out bed by very courteous Chinese staff and slept badly; worried about sleeping through and missing my flight next day. But I got up early and successfully, and headed to the airport after being driven by a porter in a golf cart through the huge hotel gardens to the entrance. Not bad for a free kip, I thought.

What to Do If You Have a Long Layover/Transit Period

The prospect of a long layover can be daunting. If you are permitted to enter the transit country on a short visa, you may wish to stay in an airport hotel or go into the city to find other – perhaps cheaper – accommodation. Alternatively, you could find somewhere to sleep in the airport. If it is not too busy this could be an option – you might be able to sleep on three regular seats in the waiting area, for example. In some ways, staying in the airport is less stressful, not least because you are less likely to miss your connection. Whether you land in the day or night will also be a factor; arriving in the morning may give you more of an appetite to explore the local area.

Shanghai Skyscrapers

En route to Pudong I found time to explore the Bund area – and the cluster of famous skyscrapers that stood imposingly on a bend of the Yangtze River. Above me was a science fiction city of futuristic towers, while below me antiquated coal and scrap metal barges chugged. Along the river embankment Chinese ladies practiced Tai Chi. As the early sun rose behind the skyscrapers I got a real sense of the enormity of this city; it is, after all, the world's most populous ‘city proper'.

Shanghai Skyline

Bund area, Shanghai

Early morning in Bund area, Shanghai

Shanghai was as modern as any city could hope to be, and dispelled any ideas I had about millions of cycling peasants, or about Chinese poverty. With cities like this, no wonder China is considered a country of the future.

It was only a 17 hour stopover, but it had been eventful.

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