Posted on Friday, 26 December 2014

After spending several weeks on the idyllic Cambodian island of Ko Rong, arriving in Ho Chi Min City was a shock. Often referred to by its pre-war name of Saigon, this city of nine million is a place of swarming motorbikes, labyrinthine markets, and strange foods.

Stepping off the overnight bus from Cambodia with two fellow travellers from Ko Rong – an American guy and a German girl – rush-hour Ho Chi Minh presented itself. In the fumy, beeping morning chaos we fumbled through our guidebooks and cast around for street signs; none of us had looked at a map until then, or carried out any research at all.

Ho Chi Minh City (Aleksandar Todorovic/Bigstock.com)

Somehow, however, we found our way to the main tourist area where the Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham streets intersect. Here we found a very comfortable hotel offering rooms for just $10. It was run by a lively Vietnamese man who had spent some time in the USA and spoke very good English.

After a rest we showered and were ready to take on Ho Chi Minh City.

The first point of business was lunch. Eating in Ho Chi Minh (as so many activities in Vietnam would prove) was as eye-opening as it was affordable.

Bird's Nest Soup, Bún chả and Phở

As a vegetarian I am limited in what I can eat (especially in a country like Vietnam), but my carnivorous friends were open to anything. The American, already a fan of Vietnam's famous Phở noodle soup, opted for a Bird's Nest Soup. For such a delicacy, it was quite affordable – although the American said he wouldn't be ordering it again: the gelatinous, almost slimy texture is very much an acquired taste, he explained.

The German chose a Bún chả, a rice vermicelli based dish with grilled pork patties and a fresh basket of herbs, pickled vegetables and bean sprouts. It was cheaper than the Bird's Nest and received an enthusiastic thumbs-up from the German.

I went with the classic Phở noodle soup – but without the meat. I knew that other vegetarian treats lay ahead, since there are specialist vegetarian restaurants across Vietnam, generally catering to Buddhists.

Ben Thanh Market

After lunch we explored the bustling Ben Thanh Market, marked out by its big clock tower. If any visitor is seeking some 'knock-off' clothing, then this is the place to come; the textile industry is huge in Vietnam and much of it seems geared toward making (often very convincing) counterfeit items.

The German girl had obviously read the ‘Making a Purchase' section of her guidebook: she bargained hard. In the end, she got a very good deal on her two t-shirts and bag of Vietnamese coffee.

Ho Chi Minh City (xuanhuongho/Bigstock.com)

Haggling Tips

It's worth noting that prices can be 50-100% higher for foreigners than for locals, but if you haggle well, you can get this down. The level of trickery and double-crossing employed by Vietnamese shop and stall owners is well documented – you always have to be wary. Ensure you know how much you're getting for what price, and be clear on any exchange rate being used (between the Vietnamese dong and dollar).

Any Vietnamese involved with tourists will always try and get the highest possible price – sometimes using rather skullduggerous means to do so. But later in my trip I would discover that the 'real Vietnamese' were extremely friendly and honest.

Aleksandar Todorovic/Bigstock.com

War Surplus Market

After Ben Thanh we headed across to the War Surplus Market, where the American sought a genuine US Marines Zippo lighter. It was a densely packed market supposedly filled with American military gear – but how much of it was real was hard to say. The American bought a Zippo lighter, but he accepted it probably hadn't seen combat with the Vietcong!

Hot Stone Massage

As the afternoon waned my companions decided to take another snooze. I however went out in search of a hot stone massage – which I soon found for just 200,000 dong ($10). It's an odd experience having heated-up pebbles placed on your back, but not an unpleasant one.

Little Plastic Chairs

As dark descended over Ho Chi Minh City I met up with my friends once more and we decided to check out the city's nightlife. For most travellers, this meant drinking a beer in one of scores of pavement bars on Pham Ngu Lao and adjacent streets – and we were no different. We each perched ourselves on a tiny plastic chair – the sort that might be used in a primary school – and supped on several 'Beer Larues' (for about 50p each) as we absorbed the chaotic street scene. On the other side of the road were more tourists sitting on little chairs, drinking and eating snacks from passing food carts. The island seemed far away now.

We toasted to Ho Chi Minh City and our onward adventures in this bizarre, fascinating country.

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