Amazing Amalfi: Unrivalled Romance for Couples - Our Guide
Stylish, romantic and stunningly beautiful, the Amalfi Coast allures tens of thousands each summer with its tumbling white-washed villages, precipitous views and laid-back attitude. For couples, this winding stretch of lemon-grove-lined coast is the perfect setting for a romantic escape of the most Italian sort.
Most Amalfi coast towns double in size during summer, so you can expect a wide choice of accommodation options. Naturally, such a popular place is not cheap in peak season, but for an area with such ravishing views, such delectable seafood and such a charming attitude to life, you and your favourite person will surely be delighted to hand over those hard-earned pounds.
Getting around
Many visitors choose to hire a car for their Amalfi adventure, but this ‘road of a thousand bends' is not for the feint-hearted. Aside from the constant zig-zagging, you'll have to contend with roads that barely accommodate two lanes and some very 'assertive' Italian driving. If you want to remain relaxed and keep the romance buoyant, it might be best to give the car-hire option a miss.
For a more relaxed trip, you might hire your own driver, or rely on the very decent public transport.
Another option is the ferries. A well-developed network of ships connect Amalfi towns with Salerno, Sorrento and Capri. Naples, Ischia and Procida can all be reached via Sorrento or Capri connections.
When to visit
If you don't like crowds, queueing for your gelatos, or paying vast sums for your hotel rooms, avoid the summer peak season. Instead, opt for September or October, when the tourists have mostly dissipated and the temperatures are balmy. And don't worry, the waters remain warm and inviting even as autumn approaches.
Around five days is sufficient to experience the coast's main charms.
Sorrento
While not strictly on the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento serves as a perfect springboard for visiting the towns and villages further down the coast. Indeed, even if Amalfi is your main focus, Sorrento's stunning architecture and numerous cafés and restaurants make it a delightful place to drop into. It can be reached from bustling Naples by train.
Positano
Delightful Positano attracts thousands each year and is best navigated via its network of picturesque - yet very steep - stairs and alleyways. If you're not entirely fit, or you're just not a staircase person, choose accommodation near where you plan to hang out. Choose Fornillo for romantic seclusion, or the larger Spiaggia Grande for more of a buzz. You'll be spoilt for romantic views as the sun descends on the glittering Mediterranean.
Amalfi
The region's vertiginous capital town was once the centre of a pint-sized maritime empire, which met its end in a devastating tsunami in 1343. Despite the destruction, you can still see the remnants of its glory days: galley shipyards (now tourist gift shops) and an opulent church of neo-byzantine design, boasting a 1000-year-old bronze door. The beach can get crowded in summer, especially in August when the Italians take their holidays. But whatever time of year you visit this coast, be sure to spend a day or two in Amalfi town itself.
Ravello
If you're in the market for a dizzyingly posh hotel for yourself and your lover, head to the hilltop town of Ravello. This verdant retreat was adored by DH Lawrence and Gore Vidal, providing them with an excess of creative stimuli. Today, as then, pretty gardens and a graceful piazza are the main draws, where sophisticated, well-heeled Italians do their debonair thing. If you loved the elegance of Positano but were less keen on the crowds, Ravello could be the perfect setting to really kick back like the Italian bourgeoisie.
Hidden gems
While a tour of Amalfi's main towns will take a matter of days, the region offers a number of other world-class attractions.
Naples
This bustling, fascinating city is jam-packed with mysterious catacombs, museums and ruins.
Pompeii
If time allows, pencil in a trip to Pompeii, which was simultaneously wiped-out and preserved by Vesuvius in AD 79. If the destruction threatens the romantic vibe, be sure to visit the embracing lovers, frozen together forever.
Things to do
Path of Gods
If you love hiking - and heights - why not attempt the winding Path of God. The astonishing sea views will make you both feel like deities.
Hire a boat
Thankfully, the azure blue seas around Amalfi's towns are far less crowded than the nearby roads. Hire a boat and live it up in true Mediterranean style.
Eat seafood
If you adore seafood, you'll be spoilt for choice along the Amalfi. Enjoy fresh delights from the sea, every day.
Romantic hotels
Belmond Hotel Caruso (Ravello)
Perched above the Tyrrhenian Sea at Ravello's highest point, this five-star hotel is one of the finest in Italy, nevermind the Amalfi Coast. Sweeping, verdant views ensure the romance is turned up to 10.
Le Palme (Amalfi)
Much more affordable than the Belmond, but with plenty of its own charm, Le Palme presents you with ravishing views over Amalfi.
Casa Buonocore, Positano
Like so many hotels on the Amalfi, Casa Buonocore is found at the top of a steep flight of steps. A characterful, white-washed guest house with a relaxed feel - safely above all the tourist craziness below.
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