Posted on Thursday, 18 July 2024

Explore long sandy beaches lapped by warm Mediterranean waters, historic villas once frequented by Queen Victoria, sun kissed vineyards, and the President’s island fortress. Welcome to the Var department - home to many quieter French Riviera hidden gems.

Ditch the yacht-gazing and chic boutiques of Saint-Tropez for the bucolic charm of the Var department, one of Provence's "secret" gems.

This placid region has little in common with the glitzier tracts of the Côte d’Azur - aka the French Riviera. Rumour has it that French farmers refused to sell their land to the railways in the 1860s, and as a result, the area is considerably harder to reach - resulting in less developed, wilder beaches, where a sense of old, rustic France can still be enjoyed.

Verdant hills offer a range of hiking routes, while old villages still hold markets that remain uncorrupted by mass tourism.

Var's secret spots on the French Riviera

You won't find ranks of parasols and sun loungers along this coast, which begins in the west at La Pradet. Plage des Oursinières, one of several “secret” spots on the French Riviera, attracts snorkelers and kayakers, while Plage du Monaco offers a long and sandy beach that is quiet even in July and August.

Move south from La Pradet and you'll be rewarded with views of Toulon harbour and the idyllic Hyères islands, via a mile-long route bypassing orchids and carnations in summer.

Hyères: Explore the French Riviera’s royal bolthole

While relatively few Brits visit Hyères these days, this wasn’t always the case. The likes of Queen Victoria stayed here to escape the worst of the UK winter. She was particularly taken by Château la Clapière and its fragrant violets.

Today the château has a Queen Victoria-themed museum, and plenty of local wines to sample.

Many other well-heeled Brits stayed in Hyères in the late 18th century, when more than 400 tourist villas met the high demand, and no fewer than three Anglican churches were established.

Robert Louis Stevenson worked on Treasure Island here, while F. Scott Fitzgerald tweaked The Great Gatsby.

This historic town offers at least a day of exploration, with its atmospheric Rue des Porches, complete with arrow slits and archways. Bougainvillaea adds further colour to the peach and pistachio shades of the quaint buildings.

 

Collobrières

Chief town in the Maures massif, Collobrières is the sweet chestnut capital of Provence, where you can sample liqueur, ice cream, and much more made with the local 'marrons'.

Sawmills and cork factories once lined the Réal Collobrier river and the charming houses on the left bank are where the hard-working labourers once lived.

Roquebrune-sur-Argens

The main attraction of Roquebrune-sur-Argens is a vast rock that puts one in mind of Australia’s Uluru. It’s especially fetching - and flame-coloured - when accompanied by a good sunset.

Otherwise, the town oozes 16th-century charm with its old clock tower, and there are some great new hiking routes around.

You can also kayak under the rock to Lac Noirel, a rather wild lake. And if you’re feeling energetic, you can even kayak down to the sea (8.6 miles). Shuttle pickup is available.

Moving east along the coast

Giens Peninsula

Heading east again, you'll come across the Giens Peninsula, presenting a choice of beaches, including the western white sandy Almanarre, with its shallow waters (great for family swimming), and a more sheltered beach on the east.

La Londe-les-Maures

La Londe is a charming Var coastal town, where olive oil and wine are the key income generators for locals - as opposed to tourism. In summer, night markets offer a range of locally made crafts.

The town faces the islands of Porquerolles and Port-Cros, and offers an array of splendid beaches, of which Plage de L'Argentière is the longest and the best known.

As peaceful as Londe-les-Maures is, there are still plenty of accommodation options, varying between the traditional and the modern.

Don’t miss the Jardin Zoologique Tropical.

Plage du Pellegrin

From L'Argentière, a 5.5-mile coastal path connects a series of superb beaches, including the sandy Plage du Pellegrin, backed by a vineyard estate. Here you can sample organic wine at Le Café Léoube. There are also various accommodation options if you fancy lingering, including some very affordable Airbnb rentals.

If you’re seeking underrated places on the French Riviera, this coastal stretch ticks all the boxes.

Brégançon - Explore the French Riviera’s Presidential retreat

At the eastern end of the trail stands the imposing 13th-century fortress known as Brégançon, which has been a Presidential retreat since 1968 - the equivalent of Chequers in the UK.

If President Macron is not in residence, you can enjoy a guided tour for a very reasonable 10 euros.

Domaine du Rayol

Further east lies Domaine du Rayol, a beautiful botanical garden with all manner of dazzling Mediterranean plants, as well as examples from arid and subtropical regions of the world.

The garden’s café offers a menu that changes with the seasons (don’t miss the apricot crumble if it’s on!).

Vineyards

Rosé is perhaps Provence’s most famous export, so you can expect plenty of vineyard wine tasting while in the region. However, many estates go one step further than your average vineyard.

A case in point is Domaine de la Navicelle, where you can sample a superb biodynamic rosé, as well as bread, pâté, fruit, and tapenade, then enjoy them among the vines while gazing out across the Mediterranean. You can also stay in one of the on-site gites. Jazz nights and a summer music festival add further interest to a longer visit.

The Château Léoube, meanwhile, offers views of the President's Fort de Brégançon, e-scooter tours - and of course wine tasting.

Another notable vineyard is Figuière, where visitors can tour the organic vines on e-bikes and stop on an idyllic ridge for a picnic and fabulous sea views.

Conclusion

The Var Department has managed to eschew the large-scale tourism affecting many other parts of the region, making it one of the most underrated places on the French Riviera.

The combination of old-world charm, fabulous, unpeopled beaches, and a wealth of history make this a must if you hanker after a more authentic adventure on the Cote d'Azur.

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