Posted on Monday, 9 February 2015

As someone who has never really mastered the art of crossing the road (much to my friends' irritation as they stand frowning on the other side, waiting), Hanoi was never going to be easy for me.

But as I arrived in the rain-soaked Vietnamese capital, I still decided to seek the city's Old Town on foot from the bus station. Aside from testing my scooter-dodging ability, I also chose 'Shanks's pony' because I had heard so many stories about tuk-tuk and moto drivers ripping travellers off.

To cross the road one has to walk steadily into the swarming traffic at a constant speed. The bikes then adjust their course to avoid you. An erratic pace could result in serious injury: no sudden moves!

Traffic in Hanoi, Vietnam (mazzzur/Bigstock.com)

Poncho Paradox

I used my trusty poncho to keep the rain off, but by the time I had found the hotel-filled Old Town, I was wishing I had taken a tuk-tuk. While plastic ponchos repel rainwater, they also keep the heat in, resulting in some serious perspiration issues.

Hanoi, Vietnam (gnomeandi/Bigstock.com)

I negotiated $12 for my hotel room, although I knew I could have got it cheaper – but I was too tired to argue.

Navigational Blunders

Later I ventured out into Hanoi's old quarter to meet my friend Silas who had travelled on ahead. The streets of this old area are labyrinthine to say the least, a maze of roads and lanes that are very challenging to navigate. A phone with GPS would have been very useful here.

After a number of wrong turns and double-backs I found Silas in his central backpackers. With the rain having ceased, we ventured out to explore the area. Hanoi is one of the most vibrant cities I have ever visited, although the locals can seem rather unfriendly at times. I bought some new shorts in a shop with heaps of counterfeit clothes; the lady seller was a frosty, hard-headed haggler, offering not a glimmer of a smile.

Market in Hanoi, Vietnam (tomphung/Bigstock.com)

Later people suggested that the coldness of the locals here is attributed to Vietnamese victories of the past; they defeated the French, then the Chinese, and finally the Americans. They didn't owe foreigners anything.

B52 Bomber

After the shopping trip we sought the famous pond where a downed American B52 bomber still lies, its mangled tail striking out of the murky water. Another monument to the NVA's victory over the West. It took some time to locate, but was quite fascinating. We gazed upon the wreckage as we sipped Vietnamese coffee in a nearby cafe, served to us by a Vietnamese lady who did manage a smile.

Tales from Bia Hoi Corner

That evening we found another famous although rather less morbid spot. Bia Hoi Corner is a cross roads in the centre of the Old Town, where one can buy the cheapest beer around. A large glass costs no more than 5000 Vietnamese Dong (about 17p!).

Hanoi, Vietnam (dizainera/Bigstock.com)

Here we sat on tiny plastic chairs on the pavement and absorbed the chaos of Hanoi. Scooters weaved past each other, avoiding collisions by just millimetres. There were lots of friendly ex-pats to share tales with, mostly English teachers, as well as lots of Vietnamese keen to practice their English. Local girls come here to find Western boyfriends, we were told. The beauty of Vietnamese women was certainly not lost on us as we sipped our freshly brewed beers. We got talking to a sixty-something Englishman who told us about his life in Vietnam. He was accompanied by a very attractive young local woman – his wife.

As we took in the mayhem and colourful stories, we decided that Hanoi was going to be a very interesting place to stay for a while.

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