Posted on Thursday, 4 February 2016

Ben Shepherd explores Sicily's rich history and stunning natural beauty in a self-drive holiday with his wife and two children.

I left it to my family to appreciate the beauty of the Piazza Ignazio Florio as we drove our rental car from the airport into Palermo's old heart; I myself was too busy negotiating the heavy Sicilian traffic. But having installed ourselves in the Art Deco Hotel Joli and after two superb Americanos, I was ready to embrace the craziness and wonder of summertime Sicily.

However full-on the traffic got during our week on this alluring island, we always had the comfort of Hotel Joli to return to. This three-star establishment is better than many four-stars I've stayed in. Our spacious 'junior suite' boasted sumptuous furnishings, marble flooring and rather ostentatious Liberty-style ceilings. A great base from which to begin our adventures.

Valley of the Temples

The kids were eager to visit the beach, but my wife and I were hungry for a little history. First up was the UNESCO-listed Valley of the Temples, two hours south of Palermo. I say two hours, but it felt like a lifetime. Not only do Sicilians fail to look each way when entering an intersection – they fail to look in any direction at all. And I need not have worried about keeping fastidiously to the right hand side – the locals certainly don't!

Covering more than 1,300 hectares, Valle dei Templi is the largest archaeological site on Earth - and one of Sicily's key attractions. The main temple is simply magnificent. It's easy to see why it's considered the finest Greek ruin outside Greece itself. There's a lot to see in this astonishing place, so we were glad we brought plenty of water and a few granola bars with us. Feeling peckish towards the end of our visit, we did try some overpriced granatas in the on-site cafe – not the best we've had. It's better to bring your own snacks or eat elsewhere.

After another hairy journey up to Palermo, we found a cosy restaurant and enjoyed some classic Sicilian fare. My wife tried a caponata – a deep-fried, chopped eggplant salad – while the children and I opted for the rather heavier local speciality, stromboli – turnovers filled with mozzarella and meat or vegetables.

Mount Etna

The kids still wanted some beach-time, but Mount Etna was calling. The three-hour drive across to Etna the next day was less dramatic than to the Valley of the Temples, but the drama returned when we glimpsed the fuming hulk of Mount Etna – Europe's most active volcano. We booked tickets for the cable car and onward four-wheel drive bus to the summit. Quite costly at more than 200 euros for the four of us, but utterly worth it. Seeing the landscape change from Mediterranean vegetation to a wild moonscape is awe-inspiring. The children loved it, and took plenty of selfies for Facebook!

After enjoying a well-deserved beach day at the charming San Vito lo Capo – around two hours east of Palermo – we took an early morning drive down to the Greek Theatre in Taormina on the island's south eastern coast. This incredible structure is till used for performances and offers superb views along the coast, with Mount Etna looming in the distance. The 10 euros entry fee was well worth it.

San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily, Italy (eddygaleotti/Bigstock.com)

Fonte Aretusa

Before returning to Palermo we visited Fonte Aretusa, just a short distance from the Theatre. Here the nymph Arthusa was transformed into a stream by her god Artmemis, in order to sidestep the attentions of the river-god Alpheus. Here we relaxed by a wonderful pond complete with ducks and a lot of vocal birdlife.

Fountain of Arethusa, Syracuse, Italy (vvoevale/Bigstock.com)

‘Gourmet Rapid Lunch' at the Michelin-Starred Duomo

The previous day I had booked us into a restaurant called Duomo for a special lunchtime treat – although by this time we felt everything about Sicily was a special treat (expect perhaps the traffic). Duomo, towards the south of the island, was the first place on Sicily to receive a Michelin star. It is surprisingly unpretentious for such an establishment – but you understand precisely why it got its Michelin award when you sample the cuisine.

The kids had the 45 euro three-course Valle Santa Domenica, while my wife and I tried the 59 euro Valle San Leonardo. The only difference seemed to be two glasses of Sicilian wine, one of which, as the designated driver, I had to hand over to my wife. The free range chicken “l'aia gaia” stuffed with corn and rice crunch à la ragusana was simply divine. While the portions were petite, once everything had been consumed – including petit fours and coffee – we were all entirely satiated. A real sensation for the palate and relatively inexpensive considering the exceptional quality.

Modica

Just a short drive south of Duomo is the charming Modica, filled with some of the finest Sicilian Baroque architecture on the island. The huge Cathedral of St. George was of particular note. A most alluring town and a great place to experience the sun set – in that most dramatically Sicilian way.

As we planned a return visit to the delightful beach at San Vito lo Capo and our last couple of days on the island, we reflected that Sicily ticks all the right boxes for a Mediterranean summer holiday – bursting with history and culture, great beach life – and boasting some quite extraordinary food.

After a few days on this captivating island we were so relaxed not even the crazy Sicilian traffic could ruin our mood.

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