Posted on Wednesday, 13 July 2016

Inspired by her friend and travelling companion Lisa, Marie Taylor shares her experiences of the food, history and art of France's unique Alsace region.

The Isenheim Altarpiece was not at the top of my must-see list while in Alsace, but my friend Lisa, who was coming with me, assured me it would be the highlight of the trip. Before Lisa suggested the trip, I had known nothing of this altarpiece – but I had certainly heard about the province's amazing cheese and a sublime stew made of charcuterie, sausages and sauerkraut.

I also knew that the area has been fought over by France and Germany for centuries and that the locals had had to switch allegiance – and even language – each time a new conqueror arrived.

Before we left Lisa conjured up even more alluring images of the region: tranquil waterways, old timbered houses, the vineyards, the food.

But one subject Lisa came back to again and again was the Isenheim Altarpiece.

However, it would have to wait. We landed in Strasbourg and we were picked up in a courtesy minibus from the hotel. Once we had checked in to the very fine Hotel Le Bouclier d'Or, we set about visiting what is perhaps Strasbourg's top attraction: the Gothic Cathedral Notre Dame de Strasbourg – one of the world's tallest churches, a red sandstone structure adorned with gargoyles and sculptures of the prophets. Given all the fighting in this region over the centuries, it seemed quite incredible that it was standing at all.

Next up was the Musee Alsacien, dedicated to showcasing the astonishing crafts and history of the region. There were many amazing objects here, the most impressive of which for me were the stoves made of ceramic tile.

For lunch we visited the Brasserie Les Haras housed in a beautiful 18th century building. Inside, however, the super-modern interior was a little jarring.

But the shock soon subsided once the food began to arrive. The highlight for me was the pumpkin and goose liver tarts with an exquisite salad of pear, apple and pomegranate seeds. We also enjoyed a marvellous cheese plate – reminding me how good the French are at making this dairy product.

This was just one of a number of tremendous meals we enjoyed in the Alsace region during our stay, made all the better with Lisa's exceptional knowledge of the region's history.

In the evening we dined in the hotel and enjoyed local fois gras and some fantastic meats and sausages.

As our trip progressed I couldn't decide which was the best aspect of Alsace – the food or the art?

The most elegant of the art galleries we visited was the Fondation Beyeler museum, just a hop across the Swiss border in Basel. The Renzo Piano-designed building is light and airy and famed for its vast glass roof. The windows are positioned to integrate with the gardens outside.

Of the many paintings I saw here, the most arresting were the futuristic works of Kazimir Malevich and Vladimir Tatlin.

While in Basel we also visited the Schaulager, a fortress-like gallery which housed some great works by Warhol and Ernst, among others.

The next day we took a guided tour around the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg, a huge castle that reflected the architectural styles of the 15th and 16th centuries.

But the most memorable aspect of this day – and indeed the whole trip – was seeing the Isenheim Altarpiece. The work, created by Matthias Grünewald at the beginning of the 16th Century, features Christ enduring his agonised death, waxy skinned and emaciated. Not merely a painting, the Isenheim Altarpiece is made of sections which make it a piece of furniture and a painting at the same time.

The monastery that commissioned the painting did so for the many patients it looked after - patients suffering from a horrible disease called At Anthony's Fire. The painting was designed to offer hope to those with none.

Lisa was right - the Isenheim Altarpiece is remarkable, as much as a reminder of what art was expected to achieve many centuries ago (giving hope to the doomed), as much for its artistry.

Even without seeing the Altarpiece, Alsace would have been great – but having glimpsed it, the holiday felt complete.

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