Posted on Monday, 24 April 2017

Does Jasper Conran's new hotel, nestled deep in Marrakech's bustling heart, offer a new take on the traditional Moroccan riad? John Severalls and his wife went there to see.

There are some very fine hotels in Marrakesh, many of which are located minutes from the city's bustling Jemaa El Fna square. The riads of Morocco's capital have the ability to transport you back to a different age, while allowing you to thoroughly relax in what is one of the most chaotic – yet intriguing – settlements in the world.

So good are Marrakesh's riads that I wondered what Jasper Conran would bring to the mix.

Conran's new L'Hôtel Marrakech is secreted among the winding alleyways of the red city's Medina, not far from the vast, mesmerising main souk and the remarkable 12th Century Koutoubia Mosque.

Koutoubia Mosque

My wife and I were excited to experience this hotel for ourselves – after all, Conran is from one of Britain's most respected design families.

Finding L'Hôtel

Having taken a taxi from the airport to the Jemaa El Fna square, we attempted to locate the hotel with our smartphones. It was hidden down one of the many ancient, winding alleys – too narrow for a taxi. Alas, we soon gave in to one of the local's offers of help. A moustachioed man in flowing white robes led us smilingly to Conrad's hotel, extracting a handsome tip for the brief job.

Jemaa El Fna Square

Still, we were glad to be off the thronging streets and inside the cool of the hotel.

1930s grandeur

We were immediately greeted by the hotel's friendly staff, who led us from the entrance through the exotic garden. This oasis-like space set the tone for the whole hotel: secret, relaxed, inspiring.

We were checked in without a hitch before being shown around the chequerboard-tiled central courtyard, which spoke of the grand boutique hotels of the 1930s. The establishment was once part of the Caidel Palace, the staff informed us.

Our nights would be spent in the Fez room. Spacious and with its own balcony overlooking the mighty Atlas Mountains, it boasted a big four-poster bed, which only added to the grand old opulence of the room. Whitewashed walls and a zouak ceiling completed the charming North African vibe.

Exploring the souks

After resting we felt ready to explore Marrakesh. It's a city we have visited many times, but we always find something fresh to enjoy. New eateries – not to mention hotels – spring up all the time. My wife was set upon buying a silver Moroccan tea set, which she did in the souk after an admirable attempt at haggling the price down. The souks never fail to excite us: the myriad of colourful, aromatic and sparkling goods on offer, from teas and spices to intricately decorated plate ware, elegant lamps and kaleidoscopic linens. There's also the slight sense of danger in the souks: the young lads who give you incorrect directions in order to lead you to their uncle's spice shop or the family's silver emporium, for example. But it all adds to the thrill.

Dining under the rooftop pergola

In need of sustenance, we returned to our oasis-like hotel. After a quick dip in the hotel's little pool, we settled down to dine on the bougainvillea-draped pergola on the roof terrace, where the scent of orange blossom floated on the still, twilight air.

We gorged ourselves on marinated anchovies with lemon and capers, which was followed by a plat principaux of lamb brochettes with beetroot and carrot salad. We just about managed to fit in a glorious blood orange granita.

We chinked our wine glasses as the crickets sang for us, while the call-to-prayer sounded out in the distance. All around us were tens of thousands of people and yet here in the L'Hotel we felt as if we were somewhere quiet and faraway.

After sleeping soundly in the big, soft four-poster, we arose early for breakfast – returning to the roof terrace. Compared to the night time, morning is a very different place in Marrakech. The noise of the city gradually increased as we were served a delicious breakfast of fresh croissants, pastries, preserves, fruits and perfectly poached eggs.

The sun rose over the labyrinthine rooftops of the city, beckoning us to explore its bewildering alleyways, ancient palaces and enticing souks.

An oasis in a city of chaos

It is a testament to Jasper Conran's L'Hotel Marrakesh that we were reluctant to leave the confines of this peaceful yet inspiring hotel. Indeed, after our three nights here were up, it had become more of a home than a hotel to us.

Conran has done a sterling job – offering the best of a traditional Moroccan riad, but enhancing it with a 1930s art deco vigour and modern service. For those seeking a new hotel experience in the Moroccan capital, L'Hotel Marrakesh comes highly recommended.

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